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道場
今日は久々にProjectで小山田道場でした。

なかなか混んでたなあ。


登り三日目で疲れてたけど、帰り際数人のお客さんに「楽しかったです」と言われて嬉しかった。

参加して頂いたみなさんお疲れ様でした。

次回もお楽しみに。






 
| - | 02:06 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
笠置最終日
今日は最終日。

笠置入りしてからは1日と休まず山に入り、日中は整備作業、夕方から夜にかけて登るという毎日でした。

課題も易しいのを中心に沢山出来ました。

プロジェクトも含めまだまだ手付かずの岩が沢山あるので、開拓はまだ暫く続きそうです。







 
| - | 23:56 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
笠置開拓
昨日から笠置入り。

昨日は地主さん数名と今季から開拓を開始する新エリアの地籍調査。
境界線の確認の為に山の中を歩き回ったのですが、まだこんなに岩があったのかと驚きました。




午後からはとりあえず道から一番近い岩の整備作業。
チェーンソーを使って間伐とロープでラペルして岩の掃除。
薄暗くなるまで動いてくたくたでした。




その後ボンクラでKCCのみなさんと今後の開拓に関してミーティング。

今日は昨日整備した岩をトライ。
夕方から雨が降りだし終了。
5級から2段くらいまで4本初登しました。

とにかく岩は沢山あるしハードなのも出来そうなので今後が非常に楽しみなエリアです。

9月にはこのエリアのお披露目イベントも予定しています。

お楽しみに!



 
| - | 23:50 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
オフシーズン
「全国的に湿度が高く蒸し暑い日になるでしょう」
という不吉な予報のもと、またまた行って来ました日帰り瑞牆。
今回は大面下エリアのみ。

予報通りの蒸し暑さで登れたのは「Habit」3段と「空洞」3段だけ。。
どちらもヌメり感が酷かった。
この時期はトレーニングとして考えると良いのかも。





後「Rise」のムーブを全部バラした。
そう言えば「Habit」と「Rise」は岩の下に水が流れているせいか
岩の表面が薄く結露しているような状態だった。
シーズン中は乾いてるのかな?

ぬめるし指皮はふやけて痛いし虫に刺されまくるわ散々だったけど、やっぱり岩場はいいなあ。








 
| - | 18:38 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
瑞牆
甲府市30℃の予報のもと、無謀と思いつつも瑞垣へ。
岩場に近づくにつれ若干涼しくなるもやはり暑い。。
おまけにぱりっと晴れずにどんよりと湿度も高い。
まあ、はなから難しいのは狙ってないので、いいやと岩場へ。
大黒岩周辺で軽く登った後、夕方から先日下見した大面下へ。
日が陰るとさすがに涼しくなるが湿度が高くぬめぬめしていた。
初めてのエリアなのでとりあえず「限られた時間」3段と「コオモテ」3段を登って修了。


「限られた時間」はやたら易しく感じたがラインあってるかな?アンダーから右抜け?

完全にオフシーズンだがやっぱり岩場はいいなあ。
特にこのエリアは植生も綺麗でいるだけで気持ち良い。
課題も素晴らしいし、梅雨前にもう少し通おうかな。



 
| - | 19:38 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
帰宅
小川山のイベントを経て1ヶ月ぶりに横浜に帰ってきました。

「ホライゾン」「ストラトス」完成以降から鈍りきった身体をジムで戻さねば。

とりあえず今日はゆっくりです。
| - | 12:24 | comments(1) | このページのトップへ
最終日
昨日は九州ツアー最終日でした。
先週末は予定されていた水俣でのイベントが雨で流れてしまい、実家でのんびりと過ごしました。

ホライゾン完成後は後に続く沢山のプロジェクトの事や新エリアの整備に夢中で、ゆっくりと振り返る事もなかったのですが、実家での数日間で今回の成功に対して色々と考える事が出来ました。

書くと長過ぎるので省きます。


実家で過ごした後は一日だけ新エリアで開拓しました。
簡単な課題を5本設定。
このエリアも公開までには沢山の課題が出来ることでしょう。


昨日は出発までに一時間程大谷に行って岩場にお別れをしてきました。

簡単な課題を登って岩の上に立ってきました。
天気が良くて空が綺麗でした。

また来るのにいつにも増して帰るのが寂しい気分でした。


良いツアーだったと思います。


| - | 22:27 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
Horizon
This is the another translation of my post on May 12, regarding the grade. 

Please click here for the orignal post in Japanese.

************************************************
I want to talk about the grade here, but to be honest, I don’t have the right answer.
 
No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16. However, I’m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that.
 
So I can say for sure the grade of this problem is at least V15, but I’m not sure where it exactly fits within the range of V15.  Is it in the upper 15 region or beyond 15 and in the realm of 16 – I can’t tell.
I think we just need to see more climbers experience V15s to talk about the grade of 16. Just as 4-dan(V12/13) or 5-dan(V14/15) (were) used to be in Japan.
 
So it might take more time to settle on its grade.
I want to ask strong climbers not only from Japan but also from abroad to try this problem and to hear their opinions.


 
Truthfully, I don’t care much about the grade.
‘I found a hard and cool line!’
‘I’ll try it’
‘Um…. Can’t do it’
‘Yeah, I did it!’
That’s it. I’m fine with this simple scenario.
 
Grading in climbing has a negative aspect. Dry numbers sometimes spoil great climbing and great problems. And I know people tend to focus on the numbers rather than on climbing itself.
 
I simply want to focus on climbing, not bothered with the grading. If I were not a professional climber, I would be climbing like that for sure.
 
Not to be misunderstood, I’m not trying to be cool saying ‘grade is not my thing.’  I just don’t understand what grading really is and I don’t want to be bothered thinking about it.
Before the trip to Kyushu this time, I climbed existing problems to confirm my sense of grading but ended up getting confused more.
 
So I think grades should be treated as just numbers, mechanical numbering. It can go up and down.
I rather want to keep getting on FAs of wonderful lines, pushing my limits.  And I want to cherish this motivation.


 
I decided on the name of the problem - ‘Horizon’ and on the grade at V15+ tentatively.
 
 
| - | 14:37 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
At Last!

I've recieved so many warm messages from overseas regarding the latest accomplishment of Horizon.
That encourages me a lot!
So I provide the English translation of the post on May 10, 2015.

The oiginal post in Japanese is here.
http://koyamada.dai.hiho.jp/?eid=867423

************************************************************************************

Finally I was able to hold myself after swinging at the crux where I had fallen so many times.
I was calm enough to put my right foot onto the tiny stance even as I miss it once.
Then turned my body 180 degrees and set both feet on the lip. Made another 180-degree turn and climbed up onto the pitch-dark ledge.
 
The prime objective of this Kyushu trip was to complete the Super Project in Otani sector of Hiei Mountain area in Miyazaki prefecture on Japanese Southern island of Kyushu.
 
I first saw this project about three years ago when Jinnai-san took me to a new area of Hiei Mountain where there was a huge rock with stunning roof.
It was so ‘shocking’.
I had never seen such a massive granite boulder with continuous holds. Ease of access is also great, and I got really excited that I met this fantastic project!
It was nothing but the ‘Super Project’.
 
As I started to work on it, however, I found it was much harder than I had expected and was difficult to focus only on this project as there were other fascinating projects to try in the same area.
 
Conditions have hampered me, too. Often struggled with seepage after the rain through the crack even it’s in the roof. How many times I was rejected by the wet cracks…. 
Nonetheless, I kept going back to this project to figure out the sequences and practice the moves whenever I felt fit and spent a lot of time to tackle this giant roof.
 
During the trip of 2014, though it was a short trip, I was able to focus on this project and have done all the sequences by dividing into two parts at a rest spot in the middle of the line. Then as I accomplished FAs of other major projects in the area such as Amaterasu, I brought myself to concentrate on this project both mentally and physically.
 
This might be the last chance for me considering my age…..
My desire to complete this project this time was strong.
 
I embarked on this trip with such feelings.
 
Yesterday, it was sunny and the temperature was quite high. Most holds were a little bit wet after the rain from two days ago and barely becoming dry enough. But some holds were completely wet, so I stuffed tissue papers to stop seepage. Then, I started.
As soon as I did, I realized I couldn’t do the crux moves which I had done before, maybe because it was too hot and I hadn’t been on it for a long time. This made me very nervous. So I switched my mind to concentrate on just practicing all the sequences during the daytime and waited for the evening.
 
The temperature dropped sharply in the evening and conditions improved.
Then it came the first serious attempt of this day. It was pretty good, starting smoothly but fell at the crux no-feet swing. The second attempt was also good, or much better than the first one. I held myself from swinging off for the first time but missed catching a tiny stance for the right foot and fell.
Through these two attempts, I got confident that I was very close to complete this project, then waited for the temps to become much cooler.
 
When the night came, the third attempt was with the lanterns – but failed at the beginning. Following a short break, I did the fourth attempt. I went through the sequences with some fatigue, and fell right before the crux.
After this attempt, I felt I may have lost my concentration. And I was exhausted. It was disappointing that I probably missed the chance because it was going to rain the following couple of days. I regretted that I failed at the second attempt – why was I not able to hold myself at the crux…?
 
Conditions gradually improved over time, however, and the temperature dropped. So I decided to try again. Even if I didn’t make it, it would be a good training for the day and it’ll be a rainy day tomorrow - and this thought made me relaxed.
Took some break for a while. Usually I don’t eat so much when climbing but I forced myself to eat. Then I felt like I got refreshed.
 
The fifth attempt. Making the initial sequences with sensitive foot-works smoothly and reaching to a rest spot. Even though it’s supposed to be a rest, I couldn’t stay long but just shaking one time for each arm. Then going into the second half. It was perfect so far. Moves become suddenly harder from this point on, with complicated and tricky footwork and then three moves without foot holds.

 



 
The following three moves were the crux of this project. I jammed my left fingers properly.
 

 
And put my right hand via a shallow undercling intermediate pocket hold then to a good hold. Then cutting both feet and controlling the swing - this was the real crux.
 
Got it!
 
Similar to the second attempt, I missed catching the tiny right foot hold but this time I was calm enough to recover and put my foot onto it. 

 
 
I sat down on the pitch-dark ledge with heavy breathing and stayed there for a moment until I became aware that I’ve done it finally. I had to climb up another 5 meters of slab to reach the top. So I asked to pass me a headlamp and enjoyed the completion of this project with fear but with full of happiness.
 
This is how I completed my hardest climbing ever.
 
Before finishing this project, I was afraid that I would burn out and might lose motivation for climbing. But this never happened. I am already obsessed with other projects, a lot of projects. 
 
Is it the sign of some youth still left in me that I can put this Super Project in perspective as one of the milestones passing en route not the final destination?
 
I would like to express my deepest appreciations to Tomiyama-san who devoted to clean the rock and removing tons of soil over the rock inside the cracks and the surface. And of course to Jinnai-san for his tremendous support in so many aspects.


 
Speaking about grade, I will write up in a separate post.

 


 
| - | 22:41 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ
その後
変わらず岩場通いが続いています。
レストの日も整備作業で岩場に入り、ほぼ毎日岩場にいる感じです。
「ホライゾン」完成の翌々日には新エリアでプロジェクトを初登しました。



この日は日中の暑さから逃れる為に日が落ちてから行動を開始。
完全に暗くなってからもなかなか気温が下がらず、ムーブを起こすのも辛い感じだったが、8時を過ぎると
流石に気温が下がり始め、ホールドの持ち感が良くなった。
数回のトライの後、核心を突破し登れるかに思えたがリップ取りで失敗。
あ、これはもう登れるなと軽くレストし、次のトライでまさかの同高度落ち。
その後なかなか落ちたポイントまで達せず、敗退の二文字が頭をよぎったが、最後の最後のトライでなんとか登れた。



コンディションがいまいちだったのもあるがハマりかけてヤバかった。
とにかく見た目もムーブも最高の素晴らしい課題だ。

課題名は「ストラトス」
グレードはV12/13 4段かな。

次は右奥の岩、これも凄い。





 
| - | 00:15 | comments(0) | このページのトップへ